CELL-BASE, NOT JUST COLOR BUT ALSO CELL-CREATEUR

THE PRODUCT CELL-BASE That's it. Cell-Base is an exceptional cell creation product for resin art work. Cell-Base is not just color, but also a cell creator that produces incredible effects when used correctly. It can. With Cell-Base, creating cells is child's play. With its basic color you have the possibility to create cell structures in 13 different Colors. That's what it's for. Cell-Base is designed to work with MASTERCAST 1-2-1. In terms of viscosity, density and the hardening process, this resin is particularly well suited for working with Cell-Base. If you want to use a different resin, you will get different effects. Pigment pastes are best suited as colorants for the top layer. Acrylic paints or inks and pigment powders are not particularly well suited to working with Cell-Base. You should also avoid our resi-METAL metallic pigment pastes when working with Cell-Base. Particularities. Cell-Base is color and cell generator in one product. Above all, it is particularly well suited for use in the dirty-pour style. It mixes easily with our MASTERCAST 1-2-1 Resin and is easy to use. Measuring, mixing and processing Cell-Base 1.) Mix clear resin. MASTERCAST 1-2-1 is best suited for this. 2.) Put part of your clear resin in a mixing cup that you previously put your colorant in and add up to 10% Cell-Base. 3.) Stir slowly and thoroughly for 3-5 minutes; also on the bottom and edges of the mixing cup. The colorant should stand out clearly from the cell-base's own color. 4.) You have prepared your painting surface beforehand, which means: it has been dusted off, degreased and is lying flat on your work surface. Pour the resin-cell-base mixture onto your painting surface. This is the base layer and the pigmentation in the Cell-Base gives you color directly on your painting surface. 5.) Then pour colored resin onto your base. This layer should be thinner than the base layer. 6.) Spread the upper resin layer over the lower one. You can use a plastic spatula for this, for example. This technique is called the swipe technique and you can watch cells form immediately. In addition, use a stick to draw lines with the colored resin. 7.) Give your preserved cells 30-60 seconds to grow and unfold. 8.) Change the cells if you want. With a hot air gun you can create more cells with circular movements. Make sure your heat gun isn't set on too much heat, or the cells will disappear. Measuring, mixing and processing Cell-Base (dirty-pour-style application) 1.) Mix clear resin. MASTERCAST 1-2-1 is best suited for this. 2.) Put part of your clear resin in a mixing cup that you previously put your colorant in and add up to 10% Cell-Base. 3.) Stir slowly and thoroughly for 3-5 minutes; also on the bottom and edges of the mixing cup. The colorant should stand out clearly from the cell-base's own color. 4.) You have prepared your painting surface beforehand, which means: it has been dusted off, degreased and is lying flat on your work surface. Pour the resin-cell-base mixture onto your painting surface. This is the base layer and the pigmentation in the Cell-Base gives you color directly on your painting surface. 5.) Then pour colored resin onto your base. This layer should be thinner than the base layer. 6.) Let the resin run free and don't interfere. 7.) Change the cells if you want. With a hot air gun you can create more cells with circular movements. Make sure your heat gun isn't set on too much heat, or the cells will disappear. You should pay attention to that. Although our resins are formulated with the most advanced and safest epoxy chemistry available, you should handle all epoxy resins responsibly and be proactive about your safety: • Always wear nitrile gloves. • When sanding cured resin, wear a dust mask, and better yet, wear safety goggles. • It is advisable to work in a well-ventilated area and to wear a respirator. • Avoid skin contact (if resin gets on skin, wash with plenty of soap and water). • DO NOT eat, drink or smoke while working. • If eyes get dirty, wash with plenty of water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately. • Adding inks/varnishes/mica powder/glitter to epoxy changes its properties and may reduce its non-toxicity. If you are using alcohol ink, DO NOT use a flame to remove bubbles as alcohol is flammable.